Day 9 – Bloodied, Beaten, and Bruised

Start Time: 6:25 am
End Time: 12:00 pm
Start Mileage: 2,566.90
End Mileage: 2,575.10
Distance Walked: 8.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 815 ft
Descent: 1,927 ft

Morning on the Trail

We were on the trail by 6:25 am, with just over six hours to walk 8.5 miles in order to catch the 12:30 pm bus into Stehekin. After last night’s heavy rain, we expected a soggy walk through the wet vegetation that lined the trail.

Though the path was supposed to lead us downhill, the familiar reality of uphill stretches returned quickly. After two hours of steady walking, we stopped for breakfast and finished off nearly all of our remaining food. Our backs rejoiced at the thought of lighter packs for the rest of the morning.

From our vantage points, we enjoyed sweeping views down into the gorge, where the river carved its course through solid rock. It was a magnificent sight.

Toward Stehekin

Back on the trail, we were grateful for the sunshine that helped dry things out. We crossed a couple of sturdy bridges that offered perfect photo opportunities of the raging waters below.

Finally, after 5 hours and 20 minutes of hiking, we reached the bus stop. With about 45 minutes to wait, we enjoyed chatting with a few fellow hikers and a hunter with his young son. Right on time, the bus pulled up at 12:30 pm. The ride into Stehekin doubled as a history lesson, with the driver sharing stories about the valley and its landmarks. A brief stop at the renowned bakery gave us just enough time to grab coffee and a treat before continuing into town.

Stehekin—one of the last stops before the PCT ends near the Canadian border—was a welcome sight. After checking in, our first priorities were laundry, showers, and finally disposing of the garbage we’d been carrying for days.

A Meal to Remember

For dinner, we went to The Landing at Stehekin, the restaurant at the North Cascade Lodge. To our delight, we ran into Silke from Belgium, a friend we’d seen multiple times on the trail. Since there were no rooms available when she arrived, she was camping nearby and happily joined us for dinner.

Our server, Mia, was exceptional, and her recommendations did not disappoint. I chose salmon with gnocchi—two of my favorites—and it was superb. Later, I met Clay, the young chef who had prepared my meal, and was able to thank him personally for his excellent work.

A Difficult Decision

I had reached Stehekin bloodied, battered, and bruised—but unbowed. Still, my rib injury forced me to make a decision I had been dreading: to step off the trail.

A little background may help explain. About 8–9 weeks before the hike, I injured my right thigh while doing heavy gardening—ironically, the same side where I’d had hip replacement surgery 16 months earlier. A physiotherapist diagnosed it as a Grade 1 thigh strain and assured me I’d be fit to hike. I bought a thigh strap to help, and though it provided some relief, it wasn’t enough for the challenges ahead.

Then came the broken hiking poles and bruised ribs, which turned an already difficult section into a dangerous one. Another fall could have made matters much worse. Continuing would not only have jeopardized my own health but also placed an unfair burden on Huckleberry and Woody. As much as it disappointed me, it was clear the wise choice was to step off and let them carry on.

Reflections and Gratitude

Before leaving Canada, I read a saying that has stayed with me throughout this journey:

“It’s not how you travel—it’s what you carry in your heart when you travel.”

I couldn’t agree more. I want to thank my companions Huckleberry (Dan) and Woody (Woodley) for their friendship and support along the way. Without them, I would have made it to Stehekin, but it would have been far more difficult and far less joyful. The laughs we shared made all the difference in the tough moments.

Thanks as well to Anita at OIC for posting these blogs, and to David Parker of the Calgary Herald for keeping Walking People Out of Poverty in readers’ minds. My gratitude also goes to Briden Solutions for sponsoring my meals—you have no idea how much I appreciated it—and to everyone who has sponsored this walk and the many others since this project began in 2014. I cannot thank you enough.

Footnote

There were some delays in posting this blog, particularly with photos—such are the vagaries of technology. This final entry comes several weeks after my return, and I want to share something that sheds light on my struggles.

After getting home, I saw a new physiotherapist who determined that my issue wasn’t a thigh strain at all, but rather a problem with my hip flexor. When asked to perform a simple “clam shell” exercise, I could barely manage it on my surgery side, unlike my good hip. The muscles around the new hip weren’t firing properly, which explained my repeated falls.

Since then, I’ve been working on exercises 3–4 times a day. Progress is slow, and I may need to consult my surgeon if things don’t improve. It’s frustrating, but I’m determined to keep at it—I love the challenge of climbing hills too much to quit.

My hope is to return to the PCT next year for one final trek. I look forward to having you with me—if not on the trail, then in spirit—for that last journey.